





News from the road – Chase the Northern Lights – December 2024
Our journey began in Oslo, where one of the highlights was visiting Frogner Park to marvel at the sculptures of Gustav Vigeland. Braving the -4°C chill, we wandered through the park, immersed in his collection of 212 bronze and granite sculptures that depict the full circle of life. Another unforgettable experience was exploring the Fram Museum, home to the actual ship used by Fridtjof Nansen in his North West Passage expedition and later by Roald Amundsen in his historic journey to the South Pole. The compelling tales of polar exploration set the scene for our adventure deep into the Arctic Circle.
In Norway and Finland, the sauna holds a special place in local culture. Some of us ended our day with a traditional sauna experience, followed by invigorating dips into the freezing fjord.
A few days later, after a scenic ride aboard the Flam Railway and exploring the charming city of Bergen, we boarded our ship for an unforgettable voyage up the Norwegian coast into the Arctic Circle. The freezing air and towering ice-capped landscapes promised an extraordinary adventure into the far north. Our first port of call was Ålesund, an art nouveau gem. In 1904, a devastating fire ravaged the town, but it was rebuilt with houses and buildings adorned with turrets, spires, and floral motifs characteristic of art nouveau.
In Trondheim, we were in awe of the Nidaros Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece built between the 11th and 13th centuries. As we neared the Arctic Circle, the weather became more challenging, with fierce winds and snow, allowing us to truly experience the extremes of Arctic weather. By this time, we had only about an hour of daylight, with several hours of dim, grey light, but our ship provided a warm and comfortable refuge.
Walking through Tromsø, often dubbed the ‘Paris of the North,’ the snow fell heavily and gave us the feeling of stepping into a snowy Christmas card. The colourful Christmas lights adorning the town’s buildings added to the festive charm.
Our next stop was Inari in Finnish Lapland, a serene and stark winter wonderland where temperatures plummeted to -19°C. Despite the cold, our group eagerly embraced the wilderness. It was here that we were treated to several glimpses of the Northern Lights—an ethereal green lit the horizon and rose into the sky.
Dog sledding was one of the most thrilling activities of our journey. The dogs, full of energy, pulled us through the snow-covered landscape at exhilarating speeds. Snowmobiling offered another adventure as we raced through the forest with the wind whipping around us and the snow crunching beneath us. Even with our specially designed snow suits and boots, the cold was intense, but the experience was well worth it.
Reindeer sleigh rides provided a peaceful contrast. Gliding through the snow, pulled by gentle reindeer, the tranquil surroundings offered a quiet respite after the more adrenaline-pumping activities.
A highlight of our stay in Inari was a visit to the Siida Museum, which showcased the fascinating history and culture of the indigenous Sami people. We learned about their deep connection to the land and their traditional reindeer herding practices. The museum also highlighted the modern-day challenges the Sami face in preserving their heritage, particularly in the face of climate change. I was especially excited to see a mention of our Maori language nests, which had inspired the Sami in their own efforts to preserve their language.
Our Arctic adventure continued with an overnight train ride to Helsinki, Finland’s vibrant capital. In Helsinki, we spent a couple of days soaking in the city’s modern yet historic atmosphere. We visited striking architectural landmarks, like the gleaming white Helsinki Cathedral and the unique Temppeliaukio Rock Church, which is carved directly into a rock face. The Sibelius Monument, an abstract and striking sculpture, also left an impression.
To wrap up our journey, we crossed the Baltic Sea by ferry to Tallinn, Estonia, where we explored the enchanting medieval Old Town. Tallinn, with its cobblestone streets, colourful buildings, and rich history, provided the perfect ending to our adventure. Estonia’s past is marked by numerous occupations, with the Soviets maintaining control until the country regained independence in 1991. Our hotel in Tallinn had once been a KGB base, and on the 23rd floor, we found the remnants of monitoring equipment left behind, a stark reminder of the country’s turbulent past.
The Tallinn Christmas Market, nestled in the heart of the medieval Old Town, is often considered one of Europe’s most charming. With its fairy-tale backdrop of cobblestone streets and historic buildings, the market offered a magical atmosphere. We spent an evening here sipping mulled wine, sampling potato pancakes, and browsing the handcrafts and local treats.
Throughout our journey, we braved temperatures as low as -30°C—a novel experience for most of us. Bundled in layers of clothing, the cold became an integral part of the adventure. The rugged beauty of the Arctic Circle, combined with the walking tours through historic towns, the tales of polar explorers, the rich culture of the Sami people, and the stunning winter landscapes, made for an unforgettable journey filled with wonder and discovery.
We are working on a repeat of this tour for December 2025. Please contact us if you would like to go on the interest list.
Participant feedback from this tour:
This was an amazing experience at a brilliant time of year to go because of the Christmas lights and markets, and of course the snow made everything so beautiful. We said we would actually do the tour again!
We thoroughly enjoyed the tour and are very pleased we experienced it all.